I want to use Headername but also have the "Index of /path/to/whatever" displayed, because that's kind of really important?

Anyway I have achieved this using SSI:
Code:
Index of <!--#echo var="REQUEST_URI" -->
Works great, except for one problem: spaces in the path get displayed as %20. This looks really ugly.

How do I get the %20's decoded so they display as spaces?


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Alternatively, what would cause this error, besides the obvious?
Invalid command 'IndexStyleSheet', perhaps mis-spelled or defined by a module not included in the server configuration, referer:
If I could get IndexStyleSheet to work, I could do exactly what I want without dealing with SSI (since the stylesheet wouldn't overwrite the pre-existing <h1>index of etcetc). I expect it's not enabled by the host, but I'm a newb with this stuff, so what do I know?